Why treating inflammation—not just pimples—could be the future of clearer skin

WORDS: Ocean Road Editorial Staff PHOTOGRAPHY Supplied

Acne has long been treated by targeting what’s visible on the surface. But as our understanding of inflammatory skin conditions evolves, a new generation of skincare is looking deeper, towards the cellular processes driving redness, irritation and persistent breakouts.

For decades, the conversation around acne has centred on what we can see: pimples, redness and blemishes. The solutions have often followed the same formula too: dry the skin, kill bacteria and speed up cell turnover.

While these approaches have helped many people, they’re not always the complete answer.

Anyone who has experienced persistent breakouts, ongoing redness or reactive skin knows the frustration of trying product after product, only to find temporary improvement before the cycle begins again. Increasingly, researchers are recognising that inflammation itself plays a far greater role in skin health than previously understood, with the biological processes occurring beneath the skin’s surface influencing everything from acne and dermatitis to ongoing sensitivity.

That shift in thinking is beginning to influence a new generation of skincare. Rather than simply treating visible symptoms, these products are being developed to support the cellular pathways associated with inflammation and skin balance.

Among the brands embracing this science-first philosophy is Australian skincare company ZenCell™, whose Restore Serum has been developed through a pharmaceutical lens rather than a conventional cosmetic one.

Instead of relying solely on familiar active ingredients such as benzoyl peroxide or retinoids, the formula centres on p-Toluenesulfonamide, a pharmaceutical-grade compound selected for its recognised antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties. According to the brand, ZenCell™ is the first Australian skincare product to incorporate the ingredient into a topical skincare formulation.

The ingredient has been investigated for its interaction with inflammatory signalling pathways, including RIPK1, a protein involved in regulating inflammation, immune responses and cellular stress. Laboratory and preclinical research has also explored its antibacterial activity and its potential relevance across inflammatory skin conditions beyond acne.

ZenCell™ Restore Serum has been formulated to layer easily into existing skincare routines and is suitable for use on both the face and body. The brand says many users report calmer, more balanced skin within two to four weeks of consistent use, although individual results naturally vary.

Behind ZenCell™ is pharmaceutical industry specialist Shaun Baldwin, whose career included helping introduce Roaccutane® to the Australian market before establishing ZenCell™. Drawing on decades of experience working alongside clinicians and patients managing inflammatory skin conditions, Baldwin says the goal wasn’t simply to create another skincare product. It was to rethink how problematic skin is approached.

We spoke with Shaun to learn more about the science behind ZenCell™, why inflammation has become such an important focus in skincare, and where he believes treatment is heading next.

Q&A with Shaun Baldwin, Founder of ZenCell™

1. Your career began in the pharmaceutical industry rather than cosmetics. What inspired you to make the transition into skincare? 

   I’ve always been fascinated by asking why. Throughout my career I’ve been driven by understanding why things happen, whether there’s a better way of doing them, and whether we can solve problems differently rather than simply accepting the status quo. During my time working with Roaccutane, I saw first-hand the profound impact skin conditions can have on people’s lives. It wasn’t just about treating acne. It was about watching someone regain their confidence, self-esteem and sense of identity. Seeing that transformation never left me. It reinforced that skin health is deeply connected to emotional wellbeing, and that’s something I’ve carried with me ever since. I don’t really see it as moving from pharmaceuticals into cosmetics. Physically, yes, but philosophically, no. I simply brought pharmaceutical thinking into skincare. That means starting with the biology, understanding the mechanisms behind what’s happening in the skin, and asking whether there’s a smarter, more targeted approach. That’s the mindset ZenCell™ was built on.

2. You often describe inflammation as being at the heart of many common skin concerns. Why do you believe it’s been overlooked for so long? 

   For a long time we’ve focused on treating what we can see rather than asking what’s driving it beneath the surface. If someone has a breakout, we target the breakout. If their skin is red, we try to calm the redness. Those approaches certainly have their place, but they don’t always explain why the skin keeps returning to that state. The science has evolved enormously over the last decade. We’re learning much more about inflammatory signalling, immune responses and the cellular pathways involved in skin health. Yet many of the active ingredients we still rely on today were developed decades ago, so I found myself wondering whether we’d overlooked another piece of the puzzle. That curiosity led me towards researching inflammatory pathways and the proteins involved in regulating them. Sometimes the biggest breakthroughs don’t come from finding a new answer. They come from asking a different question in the first place.

3. Many consumers are familiar with ingredients like benzoyl peroxide and retinoids. How does ZenCell™ take a different approach? 

   Those ingredients have absolutely earned their place and they’ve helped millions of people. This isn’t about saying they’re wrong. It’s about recognising that science continues to evolve. With ZenCell™, we wanted to explore skin through a different lens. Rather than concentrating solely on what’s happening on the surface, we became interested in the biological processes occurring at a cellular level and how inflammation influences the skin’s overall balance. I’ve always believed that if we understand the problem more deeply, we give ourselves a better chance of developing better solutions. That’s why we looked beyond traditional cosmetic ingredients and explored pharmaceutical research for inspiration. It opened the door to a very different way of thinking about skincare.

4. ZenCell™ is built around p-Toluenesulfonamide—an ingredient most people have never heard of. What attracted you to this molecule, and what makes it significant? 

   Curiosity, if I’m being completely honest. I came across some early research and immediately wanted to understand why this particular molecule had attracted scientific attention. The more I read, the more intrigued I became. It wasn’t originally being investigated as a skincare ingredient, but some of the research surrounding its biological activity and inflammatory pathways suggested there may be broader potential worth exploring. What interested me most was that nobody seemed to be talking about it within skincare. It challenged conventional thinking and encouraged us to ask whether this molecule could offer a different way of approaching inflammation-driven skin concerns. I think the most exciting discoveries are often the ones sitting quietly in the background before anyone realises their potential. Whether it’s pharmaceuticals or skincare, innovation usually begins with curiosity.

5. Your career included introducing Roaccutane to the Australian market. How has that experience influenced your philosophy when developing ZenCell™? 

   It shaped my thinking in more ways than I probably realised at the time. Watching Roaccutane change people’s lives taught me that genuine innovation can completely redefine the way we approach a condition. It also reinforced that good science should never stand still. Research is always evolving, our understanding continues to improve, and we have to remain open to new ideas. Perhaps the biggest lesson was to stay curious. Just because something has been done a certain way for years doesn’t necessarily mean it’s the only way, or even the best way. That mindset became one of the foundations of ZenCell™. Rather than trying to create another version of what already existed, we wanted to ask whether there was a different pathway worth exploring.

6. ZenCell™ has been designed to fit alongside existing skincare routines rather than replace them. Why was that an important consideration? 

   Because life is complicated enough already! People don’t want a bathroom shelf full of products or a routine that takes half an hour every morning and night. Most people simply want something that’s effective, easy to use and fits naturally into the skincare routine they already have. We deliberately formulated ZenCell™ as a lightweight topical gel that layers easily with existing products because we wanted it to be accessible, not disruptive. If a product is difficult to incorporate into everyday life, people are less likely to use it consistently. Sometimes the best innovation isn’t making skincare more complicated. It’s making it simpler.

7. The product is positioned for more than just acne. What types of skin concerns do you believe can benefit from addressing underlying inflammation? 

   The more we learn about inflammation, the more we realise it’s involved in a surprisingly wide range of skin concerns. Acne is certainly one example, but inflammation also plays a role in ongoing redness, irritation, skin sensitivity and conditions such as eczema and dermatitis. While every condition is different and should be managed appropriately, the underlying biology often shares common inflammatory processes. That’s what makes this area of research so exciting. We’re beginning to move beyond thinking about skin conditions in isolation and instead looking at the mechanisms they may have in common. I genuinely believe we’re only scratching the surface of what we’ll understand over the next decade.

8. Consumers today are becoming increasingly interested in science-backed skincare. How do you balance complex pharmaceutical research with creating products people can confidently understand and use? 

   That’s probably my favourite part of what I do. I love the science, but I also understand that most people don’t want a lecture in molecular biology every time they pick up a skincare product. They simply want to know why something was developed, how it works, and whether it makes sense for them. My role is really about translating complex science into something that’s practical and understandable without losing the integrity of the research behind it. I actually think that’s the mark of good science. If you truly understand something, you should be able to explain it simply.

9. Looking ahead, where do you see inflammatory skincare heading over the next five to ten years, and what role do you hope ZenCell™ will play in that evolution? 

   I think we’re entering a really exciting period for skincare. As our understanding of inflammatory biology continues to grow, I believe we’ll see a shift towards more personalised, science-led approaches that are built around understanding why the skin behaves the way it does, rather than simply responding to visible symptoms. Consumers are asking better questions, researchers are uncovering new biological pathways, and technology is allowing us to investigate skin in ways we couldn’t have imagined a decade ago. As for ZenCell™, I hope we continue to challenge conventional thinking. If we can encourage people to think differently about inflammation, contribute meaningful research to the conversation and ultimately help improve people’s confidence along the way, then I’d consider that a success.

10. Finally, for someone who has spent years trying different skincare products without success, what message would you like them to hear? 

    Please don’t give up. I’ve spoken with countless people over the years who have felt frustrated, isolated and exhausted by the constant cycle of trying one product after another without finding the results they were hoping for. I understand how emotionally draining that can be. What I’d say is that science is constantly evolving. Our understanding of the skin today is very different from what it was even ten years ago, and researchers continue to uncover new pathways and possibilities every year. ZenCell™ itself began with a question, a great deal of curiosity and a willingness to think differently. Sometimes that’s exactly how progress happens. So I’d encourage people to keep believing that better solutions are still ahead, because innovation rarely stands still.