Vanuatu: The Breath of Fresh Air in the South Pacific

WORDS: Steve and Estelle Hunt PHOTOGRAPHY Brian Usher - [email protected]

A rugged, untouched island nation where authenticity, wild beauty and warm smiles outshine luxury resorts and overrun tourist traps

Don’t be fooled when you fly into the dilapidated international airport at Port Vila, the capital of Vanuatu. This hidden gem is no Changi airport; the global connection point replete with endless high-end, luxury branded clothing stores, duty free outlets and five-star restaurants. Nor is it a crowded Canggu. Or Kuta. This is no place of endless haggling and bartering. It’s just not the Vanuatu way. This is where locals would rather purchase you with their smiles for nothing in return. It’s rough, it’s rugged, it’s imperfect, but strangely pure. Like the fault lines that formed this archipelago in eons past, it is raw and random – Vanuatu’s pot holed roads the perfect metaphor. Welcome to the breath of fresh air of the South Pacific, a small cluster of 83 islands (18 of which are uninhabited) in the middle of nowhere just over two hours flight from Brisbane, and due east of Rockhampton. A place that, it seems, has been bypassed by time and progress.

An island chain that has extraordinarily eluded commercial and consumer excesses, not to mention the ugly impost of the influencer; aaah, how refreshing! No fake
boobs, puckered lips and indulgent selfies. This is no Waikiki, although as it turns out, there are stark similarities. The towering, rugged, mountainous terrain spilling to the coastal reefs on the drive between Port Vila and our coastal destination to the city’s west conjure memories of the hills above Waikiki, minus the high rises, restaurants and shops. Hints of the North Shore even. A glorious reminder of the seismic and violent past that formed the perfect pieces of imperfection that manifested the Pacific Rim in such commonality. Pristine reefs, voluminous islands towering from the ocean floor that were violently pushed above sea level by clashing tectonic plates to create this imperfect perfection. At Island Magic Resort where we are guests of our wonderful, engaging hosts Damien and Caroline Bird, you can walk from pillow to untouched reef before you can say coffee. This is no hour-long boat trip from Cairns to the Great Barrier Reef. This is no tourist haven. This is no parched or dying reef. This is no littered foreshore. Just the reef in its intended glory. Untouched by the excesses of humanity that have impacted other parts of the world.

Vanuatu has been the ‘go to’ for a small cohort of expats including Australians for decades. But with the post-pandemic new phenomenon of exploration and
wanderlust, there is an uptick in interest in this relatively forgotten part of the Pacific.It’s somewhere different to go that offers something refreshingly different
and old-worldly. “There’s no doubt places like Bali have grown so exponentially since the pandemic,” says Damien. “The cost of living has gone up in many countries including Australia and people have been seeking new alternatives to living out their lives and new adventures. “We’ve been managing the Island Magic Resort for two years now and we’ve certainly noticed an increase in new visitors to Vanuatu; visitors looking for new experiences and also people from all over the world looking for somewhere different to live. “We’ve been very keen to play our part in exposing our visitors to the beauty of Vanuatu and what this place has to offer. It is a stunning place that is majorly overlooked.” And if exploration is what you want, Damien and Caroline are quite the hosts – connecting us to tours of one of the world’s most accessible active volcanos via a small plane island hop, trips to the locally famous Blue Lagoon and nearby local islands and villages, insights into centuries-old cultural traditions, locally-guided deep sea fishing, and hospitality gems featuring the best of Vanuatu’s organic beef and
local seafood plentiful in the islands.

Our first day consisted of a trip to the Blue Lagoon, a spectacular lagoon which forms an inlet on the northern coastline of the main island of Efate. We were then treated to a stunning lunch at Banana Bay, owned by Aussie expats Caroline and her daughter Kris, a perfect stop over refreshment point between the
waterfalls and the Blue Lagoon. We also visited the local cultural centre where we learnt a long and colourful history of the local islanders, including the story of a local chief burying his multiple wives alive when he was dying centuries ago, how island natives would apply local plants to the umbilical cords of a newborn’s mother to stop the bleeding ,and how local fishermen would use ants to determine whether a fish was toxic before eating it. Our next experiences were an adrenaline-filled trip to the nearby Vanuatu Jungle Zipline, an adventure set in the hills overlooking the main island owned and operated by Australian expats Michael and Amanda Thompson. The tour includes a range of activities including six zipline rides -one of which rises more than 80 metres above a canyon and extends for more than 300 metres – a canyon rope swing which is not for the faint hearted, a skybridge crossing, and for the less adventurous a garden walk which takes in the panorama of the island.

We were also invited by our friendly guide Paul Lota on a tour to the northern side of the island past the region and resort of Havannah, which was followed by a trip to Pele Island, an island oasis which is home to less than 500 people, with white sandy beaches, crystal clear waters and small pristine reefs. The locals here hosted a buffet lunch and we were privileged to meet the local chief. Island Magic Resort is the perfect place to use as a base to explore the nooks, crannies and golden nuggets of Efate Island. On our first night we were taken nearby to The Beach Bar where we were entertained by a spectacular fire twirl show laid on
by the locals. Island Magic Resort is owned by a consortium of Australians; its centrepiece Birdie’s Bar & Kitchen an oceanfront restaurant, named after Damien and Caroline Bird, which is surrounded by 18 well-appointed and fully self-contained villas. Birdie’s is a meeting place where expats come to share in their common love of Vanuatu whilst mingling with the many visitors who come to relax and enjoy the warm, friendly service, fantastic local food and the safe and accessible reef fronting the resort and pool. “There really aren’t that many places where you can walk out of your villa and dive straight into a reef which is pristine and untouched beyond belief,” says Damien.

“There is no commercial or even local spearfishing allowed in the area, and that is reflected in the quality of the snorkelling and the pristine nature of the reef.
“It really isn’t something that can be replicated in too many parts of the world.” Caroline says the fact that Qantas, Jetstar and Virgin are operating direct flights from the Australian mainland says a lot about Vanuatu’s ‘rediscovery’. “Everyone knows Vanuatu is there but probably haven’t considered it as a place to
visit with places like Bali and Fiji on our backdoor as well,” she says. “We’re currently at around 85 per cent occupancy at Island Magic Resort and we are
noticing more and more Australians coming here for the first time. “We’re also seeing more Australians looking to invest in Vanuatu, whether in resorts
like Island Magic or individual properties which can be purchased for a lot less than Australia. “For example, someone could buy this beachfront resort with all the facilities and villas and the restaurant for the price on one property in Sydney. “The disparity is ridiculous and the tax laws are highly favourable.” Caroline and Damien pride themselves on providing a high quality, no frills and easy- going experience for visitors. “We want our visitors to relax and enjoy the beauty of Vanuatu at their own pace,” she says. “The villas are all fully furnished with beautiful sea breezes, some air-conditioned and our guests can cook at home or come to the restaurant; their choice. “We can guide them to the array of tours that are available through our wide range of tourism affiliates on the island – whether it’s a cultural tour to learn the rich history of Vanuatu; the exhilaration of the zipline adventure and canyon swing package, an unforgettable experience on Sailing Vanuatu, a trip to a nearby island to meet the local islanders and their chief, or organising a trip to Mount Yassur volcano on Tanna Island, we can help. You can  register now for Caroline’s expert advice on tours and experiences with www.vanuatuitinerary.com “We’re conveniently located only 15 – 20 minutes from the Port Vila International Airport, directly in front of the zip line and only 5 minutes to the island’s famous fire show at the Beach Bar.

Not to mention only a 4 minute drive to Mele cascades waterfall,” she says.  Damien says the restaurant prides itself on the rich local produce. “It’s from farm or ocean to plate with no additives or preservatives; it’s as authentic and natural as you can get.” Culinary delights include fresh flame tail snapper – known by locals as poulet fish, locally sourced fresh lobster and Vanuatu’s own version of a Moreton Bay bug – slipper lobster. These fresh seafood dishes are a staple at Birdies Bar & kitchen as well as their sought after local beef eye fillets – ‘so soft they can be cut with a butter knife’. Birdies Bar & Kitchen also caters to a wide range of dietary requirements and every day its experienced chefs prepare curated daily menus – a new culinary experience each and every day with regularly changing specials board usually consisting of locally caught tuna transformed in hours into sashimi or tuna steaks with locally grown vegetables.

“Vanuatu is the jewel of the South Pacific,” says Caroline. “It’s rugged and relatively untapped and open to be explored and is beginning to rival more traditional destinations such as Bali. “We might have a few potholes but we have no rubbish problem; our locals are friendly and there is very little crime outside of the central areas of Port Vila. “It’s untapped for sure – many Aussies have sought refuge and quiet and investment here and there is most definitely a new wave of Aussies and expats, including ourselves, discovering what these people have known for decades. “The people are friendly, the food is safe to eat, the water is safe to drink and visitors can experience a full range of adventures and experiences on all budgets. “But one thing is certain – the secret’s getting out.” https://islandmagicresort.com

For further information on investing in Island Magic Resort, please contact Caroline Bird at [email protected]