The Burgundy of Italy has a King and Queen! Exploring the allure of Nebbiolo, Barolo, and Barbaresco

WORDS: Words by Peter Panousis - Wine Consultant, Wine Writer, Educator, and Fine Wine Specialist PHOTOGRAPHY Supplied

Nebbiolo’s unique qualities and ability to reflect its environment have led to a growing interest among wine enthusiasts worldwide, making it a must-try for anyone looking to explore the depth and diversity of Italian wines. Whether enjoyed young for its vibrant fruit or aged to reveal complex layers, Nebbiolo remains a captivating choice for wine lovers. As Jancis Robinson, the esteemed wine writer, states… “If Pinot Noir is the world’s most tantalizing grape, Nebbiolo runs a close second and for very similar reasons.” Enter Nebbiolo from the specific region of Piedmont and hail the Italian King and Queen of wine, otherwise known as Barolo and Barbaresco… and for me, I’ll take both!

What is Nebbiolo?
Nebbiolo, pronounced neeby-oh-low, is a small to medium, ellipsoidal-shaped grape with a consistent blue-black, thick-skinned exterior. The bunches are medium-large, pyramidal, winged, elongated, and of medium tightness. The variety is early-budding and late-ripening; it needs long periods of sunshine to ripen fully, which clearly determines where it grows. The history of the variety dates back to around the 13th century, and Ampelographers (those who study botany and specifically grapes) believe that Nebbiolo is indigenous to the Piedmont region of Italy. Although there is some DNA evidence to suggest that it could have originated in the nearby Valtellina area of northern Lombardy, Italy. Oz Clarke, from his Grape Encyclopaedia book, wrote the first explicit mention of Nebbiolo dates back to 1268, in which a wine known as “nibiol” was described as growing in Rivoli near Turin. This was followed by a 1303 account of a producer in the Roero district of Italy describing a barrel of “Nebbiolo”. Further to these historic accounts and through DNA testing, conclusions were made that its parents are thought to be extinct now, though it is impossible to determine whether it was originally from Piedmont or Valtellina.

The grape’s name is thought to be derived from the Italian word “nebbia,” meaning fog, alluding to the misty conditions often present during the grape’s harvest season. Nebbiolo has long been associated with prestige, symbolizing the aristocracy of Piedmontese wines, and is one of Italy’s most prized grape varieties. As a variety, it is held in the highest regard by winemakers and wine drinkers across the world.

Nebbiolo is quite finicky and does not grow well in all soils or climates. In terms of its profile, Nebbiolo makes wines with high levels of acidity and tannins, making them a little tight and austere in their youth but providing enough backbone to make them particularly age-worthy. The wines show cherry, plum, and strawberry fruit, backed by floral notes like rose and violet, along with tar, leather, liquorice, and herbs. With age, Nebbiolo’s tannins soften, its colour turns to a brick hue, and its flavour profile develops notes of dried fruit, game meats, mushrooms, and sometimes truffle, but usually with pronounced earthy notes.

Barolo or Barbaresco?
Clearly, the King and Queen of Italian wine are Barolo and Barbaresco, and both are made with Nebbiolo. Barolo and Barbaresco are also classified as DOCG, an acronym for Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita, meaning “Denomination of origin has been inspected and guaranteed” and representing the highest quality. Although Barolo is much older, both received DOCG classification in 1980. Specifically, Barolo is regarded as the King, as it’s quite masculine due to growing in less fertile soil, making the wine higher in tannins, slightly more powerful, and age-worthy. Barbaresco, on the other hand, is more feminine and is known as the Queen because the grapes grow in more fertile soil, resulting in softer tannins, slightly less powerful, and can be consumed younger.

Barolo is produced in the Barolo wine region, which is located to the southwest of Alba, while Barbaresco comes from the Barbaresco region, situated to the northeast of Alba, about 20 km away, also in the northwest of Italy, closer to the Tanaro River. The main difference between these two regions is the soil structure. Both have calcareous marl soil, which is basically a lime-rich, clay-based soil. The lime-based soil adds a much higher pH, which in turn makes the vine produce grapes with a low pH. Specifically, grapes with a low pH have much higher acidity, and this is vital for producing wines of very high quality and age-worthiness.

On the other hand, Barbaresco’s soil is much sandier and softer than that found in Barolo, even though the core structural formation of calcareous marl is the same. The soil structure in Barbaresco is also much higher in nutrients, which assists the vine in producing less tannin. As a result, the wines of Barbaresco are softer and more approachable than those of Barolo.

With regards to aging requirements, Barolo must be aged for a minimum of 38 months (with at least 18 months in wood barrels) before release, and it often benefits from longer aging, with Barolo Riserva being aged for a minimum of five years. On the other hand, Barbaresco has a shorter aging requirement, with a minimum of 24 months (with at least 9 months in wood), making it typically more approachable in its youth. Barbaresco Riserva must be aged a minimum of four years.

When it comes to flavour profiles, Barolo often exhibits deeper, more powerful flavours, with more pronounced tannins and a complex bouquet of red fruit, rose petals, liquorice, and earthy notes. Alternatively, Barbaresco tends to be more elegant and softer in style, showcasing vibrant cherry, floral aromas, and subtle spice, with a slightly less pronounced tannin structure. Also, Barolo is generally considered fuller-bodied and more robust, making it suitable for extended aging, while Barbaresco is usually lighter and more refined, offering a more immediate drinkability, but will improve with aging.

What food pairs well with Barolo and Barbaresco?
Technically, they are both made from Nebbiolo, therefore the rules for pairing with food should be the same. But notwithstanding that, Barbaresco is lighter than the two and therefore should be paired with lighter food than Barolo. But remember, when pairing food with Barolo, keep the food simple. One does not want to overpower the wine with too many flavours and miss the magic of Barolo’s finesse and aromatic expressions. At the same time, one needs enough protein to match the tannins and structure of the wine.

Dishes like slow-cooked beef brisket, roast beef, and perhaps beef cheek ragout are just some of the dishes that come to mind to partner with this grape variety. I maintain the weight of the food has to match the weight of the wine, and vice-versa. Consequently, bigger wines for bigger-flavoured foods and or meat dishes, and alternatively, lighter wines for lighter-flavoured and delicate foods. Therefore, Nebbiolo will do the trick with its varied styles, especially with meat protein-based dishes. They also work particularly well with hard cheeses, risottos, mushrooms, and pasta dishes.

What to consider…
From my favorite pocket in La Murra, Piedmont is Cannubi, so try Serio & Battista Borgogno Barolo Cannubi DOCG. Cannubi is regarded as a Cru-class wine (meaning a great or superior growing site or vineyard) of Barolo, with a history dating back to 1752. The Cannubi site has elevations of around 280 to 300 meters and consists of sand, clay, and limestone soil structure. The area is southeast-facing and is considered fantastic exposure because of its bright, softer morning sun and time to cool off the grapes during the afternoon and evening as the sun sets. This is a family-owned estate with a long history of well over 120 years of family traditions, passion, and expertise. The winery is now run by daughters Anna and Paola Borgogno, Federica Boffa, Emanuela Bolla, the fifth generation of the family, and Marco Bolla. Their Barolo is made from vines that are a minimum of 40 years old. The wine is macerated in wooden vats with pump-over, the juice is then fermented in stainless steel, and aged for a minimum of 30 months in large-format Slovenian oak barrels (of 2500 – 5000 litres capacity). The wine is quite masculine with a deep ruby colour and has aromas of roses and balsamic. The palate is complex and brooding, yet with wild strawberry and blueberry jam notes, finishing with grippy tannins. Try it with a big hearty meal of steak, rib-eye, or a ragout of beef cheek on pappardelle.

Try Prinsi Barbaresco D.O.C.G. The Prinsi vineyard is located in Neive in the Piedmont region, about 50 km southeast of Turin. The Prinsi vineyard is owned by the Lequio family and has been farming and making wine for three generations. The vineyard is approximately 25 hectares in size and mainly grows Nebbiolo for Barbaresco, with some minor plantings of Barbera. Since 1999, after graduating, Daniele, the son, is the grower and winemaker for Prinsi. The grapes are grown from vineyards with elevations of 320 meters on soil of marl and clay.

The wine is beautifully feminine with a garnet ruby colour. On the nose, there are persistent notes of cinnamon, roses, and pepper, while the palate is soft and elegant with notes of vanilla acquired from the 30 months of maturation in small French oak barrels. Try this wine with roast lamb or beef, or slow-cooked or braised lamb shanks. But this is also a wine that can be sipped on its own.

Palladino was started in 1974 and is family-run and operated. The property is roughly 11 hectares in size and has multiple vineyards, including a 2-hectare site in the prized Serralunga commune in the heart of the Langhe region. Barolo from Serralunga is usually elegant, and the soils mainly consist of clay and limestone. The good exposure to sunlight from both east and west-facing slopes contributes to the darling qualities of this commune.

The wine is aged in old Botti barrels, which are large capacity and made from Slovenian oak. The wine is matured for around 24 months but may see some initial fermentation in concrete. It receives a further 6 months of aging in the bottle before release. The wine has notes of rose, violets with spice, liquorice, and nutmeg. The colour is garnet red, while the palate is soft yet well-structured with good acidity and tannins. This is a serious wine and needs to be enjoyed with serious food, like rich red meat such as Wagyu. The wine will also work well with rib-eye, Osso Bucco, Cottage Pie, or Greek-style Moussaka. Barolo will also pair wonderfully with cheese, particularly hard salty cheeses like Pecorino or Parmigiano. The wine has received many awards, including 92 points from the famous wine scribe James Suckling.

Enjoy and happy but safe drinking.  You can catch Peter on Facebook, Twitter & Instagram as @peterpanwine.