Summertime Groove is Grüner time!

WORDS: Peter Panousis - @peterpanwine PHOTOGRAPHY Supplied

Grüner Veltliner, often hailed as Austria’s flagship white varietal, has been making waves in the wine world for its versatility and distinct characteristics. With its origins rooted in the vibrant vineyards of Austria, this grape has earned a dedicated following among wine lovers for good reason. In 2011 there were only a handful of local producers; 13 years on and there are now over 50 producers peppering the Australian landscape with over 30 in the Adelaide Hills alone.  Australia is also importing more Austrian Grüner Veltliner than ever before and it is not uncommon to find at least one in any respectable retail outlet or on a good wine list. The variety is gaining momentum and I for one like Grüner Veltliner – it suits our lifestyle, it goes well with our food and it tastes bloody delicious.

What is Grüner?

Grüner Veltliner is an ancient grape variety discovered over 2000 years ago in Austria. The grape is synonymous with Austria and pervades the countryside, to the point where over 35% of all grapes planted are GV.  Recent DNA testing has confirmed the variety is a natural crossing of Savignan (not Sauvignon Blanc but rather an ancient Traminer variety) and a lesser-known variety known as St Georgen. As Jancis Robinson states “Grüner Veltliner means literally ‘green grape from the village of Veltlin in the Tirol’, and it has been commonly believed that it must be closely related to two other varieties making something of a comeback at the moment, Roter Veltliner and Früher Roter Veltliner, otherwise known as Frühroter Veltliner”.

The grape is thick-skinned, has medium size berries, is yellow to fox yellow in colour with medium to large conical clusters and is prone to high yields if not regulated properly.  It likes to grow in deep loess soils (rich dust-like soils containing equal parts of sand and silt but also contains clay, minerals mica and quartz) and is late ripening.

As Madeline Puckette of Wine Folly fame states: Grüner Veltliner produces fresh crisp wines that are usually dry, light to medium bodied with low tannins and high acidity.  However, the style spectrum ranges from light no oak treatment, to fleshy, full-bodied oaked or unoaked styles not dissimilar to Chardonnay, to finally botrytis affected sweet wine that can age for a very long time. Visually in the glass, Grüner Veltliner can often be translucent or pale with a green tinge when young or light yellow and straw to a deep golden colour for aged examples.  On the nose and palate, GV displays citrus (lime, lemon, grapefruit), pear, green apple, and other herbaceous nuances as well as ginger, white pepper, nutmeg, allspice, tarragon and radish. Like a Riesling on steroids, Grüner Veltliner has piercing acidity and drying minerality.  At its best, it showcases a unique blend of flavours and aromas that only enhance its intriguing profile thus making it incredibly food-friendly. In addition, depending on the region and vineyard practices, one may also encounter hints of stone fruits, citrus, and even subtle herbal or grassy nuances. Therefore, one of the hallmarks of Grüner Veltliner is its ability to express the terroir from which it comes. The soils, climate and winemaking techniques all contribute to the wine’s character, resulting in a delightful range from crisp and youthful to more complex and mature offerings.

With regard to alcohol levels, these vary depending on the style, usually around 11.5% but can hit the 13.5% mark for the full-bodied styles. The wines can be enjoyed young and fresh but will age extremely well over time. So in short, the variety is all about zesty acidity, texture and savoury spice.

Whilst GV grows in a wide variety of soils and in particular loess and clay soils (which tend to produce rich, robust, creamy wines) it will achieve tremendous results in slate, gneiss, granite and limestone geology.  Note: it is a thirsty grape that loves water and will achieve outstanding results with topsoils that retain moisture. Generally speaking, cool climate and warm days, slow ripening conditions, cool evenings, and moderate rainfall (or irrigation) suit Grüner Veltliner.  These elements of terroir influence site selection and it’s no wonder it grows well in Austria.

Where does it grow best?

Grüner’s historic birthplace is Austria and with only around 40 registered grape varieties and a long history of growing grapes (over 2000 years), it’s little wonder the grape is both farmed and vinified to perfection.   Along with its wine-making history, and limited grape varieties to focus on, Austria offers the perfect terroir and climatic conditions for growing Grüner Veltliner. In particular, the variety grows best in Austria’s four key grape growing regions: Wachau: Known for its stunningly steep vineyards along the Danube River, Wachau produces some of the most prestigious Grüner Veltliners. The combination of slate and gneiss soils, along with the region’s microclimate, imbues the wines with a pronounced minerality and vibrant acidity; Kremstal: Located to the north of Wachau, the Kremstal region showcases diverse soil types, including loess and sandy soils. The wines here often exhibit both freshness and complexity, making them particularly appealing; Kamptal: Just a bit further north, Kamptal offers ideal conditions for GV, resulting in wines with rich texture and floral notes. Many producers here focus on organic and biodynamic practices, further enhancing the expression of terroir; Burgenland: This warmer region is known for producing richer expressions of Grüner Veltliner. The influence of the Pannonian climate helps develop riper fruit flavours while maintaining the varietal’s characteristic acidity. Specifically, Pannonian’s climate complex weather is caused by the interaction of wet winds from the west, drier winds from the south and cooler winds from the Carpathians and Alps, which sometimes results in severe storms.

Outside of Austria, GV is grown in the Czech Republic, Slovakia, France and Hungary in Europe. Elsewhere, New Zealand’s Central Otago region is doing some awesome work with Grüner Veltliner, and both climate and soil are critical to its success.  Here in Australia where the variety was first planted in 2005, several regions shine including Queensland’s Granite Belt, Tasmania, Clare Valley, Eden Valley, Hilltops, Canberra, Langhorne Creek, McLaren Vale and of course Adelaide Hills.  In fact, the Adelaide Hills is where the bulk of GV is grown and again no surprise really given the climate and terroir of this region. One need only look at the similarities of these regions to Austria to see why Grüner Veltliner does well in this new world site.

One of the hallmarks of GV is its ability to express the terroir from which it comes. The soils, climate, and winemaking techniques all contribute to the wine’s character, resulting in a delightful range from crisp and youthful to more complex and mature offerings.

Why Grüner Veltliner?

GV is simply right for Australia, embracing our climate, lifestyle and our foods.  It is one of the most versatile white wines that can be consumed young and fresh, or aged like an older Riesling.  Regardless of style, the wine suits our hot summers and mild winters primarily because of its crisp, zesty acidity.  Also, Grüner Veltliner can tolerate being served ice cold, unlike many other white varieties, suiting many Aussie palates.  Yet another reason is that GV is reasonably priced and affordable including the ones imported from Austria.

Furthermore, this Austrian superhero is incredibly food-friendly, again due to the array of flavours, texture and spice.  Think Grüner Veltliner with Asian food. Specifically, try it with Sashimi and Sushi, OMG so good or try it with Vietnamese or Thai dishes with coriander, mint and basil, simply sublime.  GV will also handle flavoursome mild Indian curries and pulses. But why stop there, the Austrians drink Grüner Veltliner with pork schnitzels and Vienna sausage, so the fleshier types handle meats to perfection. Try GV with soft cheese like Brie and Camembert or even goat’s cheese (especially the creamier styles): you will not be disappointed! Also, you will find it a perfect grape variety to pair with the most difficult of foods such as asparagus, bitter greens and artichoke.

Conclusion: Grüner Veltliner is more than just a refreshing white wine; it is a reflection of Austria’s diverse terroir and winemaking traditions. Whether enjoyed on its own or paired with a delightful meal, this unique variety proves to be a compelling choice for wine enthusiasts. As it continues to gain recognition worldwide, exploring Grüner Veltliner offers a wonderful adventure through the flavours and landscapes of Austria or other parts of the world. So next time you’re on the hunt for a new bottle of wine, consider reaching for this captivating grape.

What to consider……

From Austria try the Funkstille Grüner Veltliner made by world-renowned winemaker Ferdinand Mayr, a 16^th-generation winemaking family from the Niederösterreich region, which is in the lower part of Austria.  Funkstille means radio silence in German.  The grapes are grown in vineyards with south-east and south-west exposure and in mixed soils of loess clay and granite and are sustainable and certified to the highest Austrian winemaking standards. The grapes are harvested in the morning and the juice is kept on skins for 12 days in stainless steel tanks.  The completed wine shows subtle exotic hints of ripe pear and fresh citrus flavours, with other complex flavours leading to the palate. The palate is also rich with flavours of melon and grapefruit with a refreshing, zippy dry finish.  A wine to be enjoyed perfectly with chicken, turkey or grilled fish in the summertime.

From Australia try Nova Vita from the Adelaide Hills.  Nova Vita is a family-owned winery that was established in 2000 by Mark and Joanne Kozned. James Halliday rates the winery with 4 stars and as he puts it  “The name Nova Vita reflects the beginning of the Kozned’s new life, the firebird on the label coming from their Russian ancestry – it is a Russian myth that only a happy or lucky person may see the bird or hear its song. “ Their Grüner Veltliner is early harvested whole bunch pressed and matured in oak with 12-month aging on yeast lees thus producing a complex creamy-textured wine.  The wine is also vegan friendly with no animal products used.   A luxurious wine with notes of tarragon, ginger green apple on both the nose and palate with a spicy peppery and minerally acid finish.   Sam Kim from Wine Orbit has awarded this wine 93 points. Try this wine with grilled chicken and tarragon cream sauce, or grilled pork chops.

Yet another from Australia (and there are far too many to list here) but I really like the Hahndorf Hill Grüner Veltliner from Adelaide Hills. The Hahndorf Hill Winery was established by Larry Jacobs and Marc Dobson both originally from South Africa. In 2010 they were one of the first to produce Grüner after importing clones from Austria. Their 2017 Gru Grüner Veltliner won a Gold Medal at the Australian Alternative Varieties Wine Show 2017 and received 96 points from James Halliday. The wine shows vibrant citrus on the nose and hints of spice, and a long crisp minerally acid finish on the palate.  Just a pure delight to the senses and it pairs well with chilled fresh seafood.

• Enjoy and happy safe drinking. You can catch Peter on Facebook, Twitter & Instagram as @peterpanwine