TRAVEL
From Goldmines to Grapevines – Wining and Dining through The Pyrenees
WORDS: Kat Johnston PHOTOGRAPHY Kat Johnston. Bigabilla Sunset over Moonambel
When I told friends I’d recently returned from the Pyrenees with some great wines, many look confused.
‘I didn’t know you were in Spain,’ more than one person remarked.
‘The Victorian Pyrenees,’ I said.
‘Where’s that?’
Vineyards over Dalwhinnie Estate (Photo by Tony Evans)
A world away from the hustle of Melbourne, the Pyrenees Wine Region lies two hours northwest of the city yet remains largely unknown. While wine-lovers regularly flock to Victoria’s Mornington Peninsula and Yarra Valley, surprisingly few have discovered this abundant, unspoiled gem that sits in the high plains along the historic goldrush routes between Ballarat and Bendigo.
Gateway to the Pyrenees (Photo by Vanessa Brady)
Cellar Door (Photo by Tony Evans)
I spent several days exploring the area around Avoca, Moonambel and Beaufort and was met with a refreshing, warm-hearted country charm, largely lost in other areas to the floods of tourism. Along with some spectacular natural beauty, I was surprised and impressed by the quality, value and variety I was to discover in wine and food, learning that the greatest rewards can still be found in heading off the beaten track.
WINING
Across The Ranges at Mount Avoca
Avoca is the largest town in the Pyrenees. It is by no means big, but there is plenty to do, including picturesque riverside markets, the Avoca Cup in spring, and the Pyrenees Unearthed Festival every April, an opportunity to experience all that Pyrenees winemakers have to offer. I based myself onsite at an organic winery, Mount Avoca, conveniently positioned to visit other places, but perfect to come back and relax in tranquillity. More about this later…
Set back along the Sunraysia Highway entering Avoca, the entrance to St Ignatius is easy to miss. Do a U-turn — especially if you are seeking something special. Owned and run by a forward-thinking Argentinian family, fans of a rich, deep Malbec will not be disappointed. Malbec, incidentally, is also the best wine for your heart — how’s that for a good excuse to enjoy red wine! You will likely be greeted by the lovely owner Sylvia, who will introduce you to Australia’s only Malbec Rosé and Malbec Blanc. St Ignatius is also one of the only producers of Torrontés in the country, while their rich Argentinian reds, including their Reserve Carmenere will leave your mouth watering. Open 7 days, 11am-5pm. Make a booking online.
Mount Avoca has a diverse range of mostly certified organic and vegan, multi award-winning wines. One highlight is their Lagrein, a northern Italian medium-body red with high tannins. With around only 40 producers across Australia, it’s worth a try and will probably convert you. They also have delectable sparkling shiraz, perfect for Christmas lunch, and a top-notch Blanc de Blanc. The 2018 Merlot was awarded best in show in the 2019 Australasian Winestate Awards. At the dog-friendly cellar door, visitors can bring a picnic basket or utilise the free BBQ facilities in the gardens. A designated play area for children allows the adults to unwind with a glass of wine and munch on a pre-order platter and salads. Open 7 days, 11am – 4pm.
Blue Pyrenees Estate has a curious history. Established in 1963, it was initially created to make brandy under the ‘Château Rémy’ banner, by the French company Rémy Martin, famous for Cognac brandy. When World War II broke out, the Australian-grown grapes became an integral supplier for brandy, an unexpected good-fortune that funded the winery through its difficult post-war years.
Re-named Blue Pyrenees Estate, today the winery has an expansive wine list, a buzzing cellar door and an outside dining area under a canopy of grapevines — a great place to stop for a light lunch. Their wines include six sparkling wines, two pet nats and numerous red and whites. Open 7 days, 11am – 5pm.
Moonambel is a charming village, surrounded by the rolling green hills of the Pyrenees State Forest and St Arnaud National Park, offering some of the best views in the region and an abundance of vineyards.
At the far end of Moonambel, Taltarni is a great place to begin a wine tour, winding your way back towards the picturesque township through the other vineyards. If a bit of fizz is your tipple, don’t miss out on Taltarni’s selection of sparkling wines, a reputation well-earned. But it’s not all bubbles at Taltarni — they also produce a wide selection of some fine reds, whites and blends, including a superb Fumé Blanc. During warmer weather, you can lounge in bean bags around the cellar door gardens and listen to music. Open 7 days a week.
Photo by Tony Evans
You will love arriving at this beautifully appointed cellar door. At 595 metres above sea level, Dalwhinnie is the highest of the Pyrenees region’s vineyards with sweeping views across an amphitheatre of Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay vines. The winery has a long legacy of impressive premium vintages, notably the iconic Eagle Shiraz, a Langton’s Classified wine, awarded Gold in the Decanter World Wine Awards in both 2021 and 2022. Their new, lighter-style single vineyard LDR Shiraz is also turning heads, and the Chardonnay a favourite. The surrounding elevated decking is an idyllic place to sip and relax for up to 30 people. Book ahead to order a cheese platter. Open Friday to Monday, 10am – 4pm.
Watch the sun go down across the Pyrenees Ranges at this lovely boutique winery. Bigabilla sits high on top of the hill with a unique panoramic outlook across the region. Specialising in red wines, they are open Saturdays and Sundays, 11am – 5pm, offering wine tastings and shared grazing boards, and even a game of giant chess along the deck.
A little out of the way…
Mrs Bakers Still House (Elmhurst)
The tasting room of this micro-distillery is a whimsical old white weather board house, surrounded by many botanical plants used in the gins and set into the natural amphitheatre of the Glenpatrick valley. Sitting on the porch soaking in the sunshine and the views, it’s a serene, yet vibrant setting, Head distiller, Jane, is the hostess with the mostest. Serving a generous lunch platter with her homemade chutneys. Jane and her daughter are the proprietors of the distillery, and feminine touches abound, including a beautifully presented and educational tasting menu. She talked us through each gin for its unique qualities and her processes. Jane also runs 3-hour Gin-blending master-classes, and ‘Paint and Sip’ classes. Look out for the deliciously festive, award-winning Mrs Bakers Christmas gin.
Dogrock (Crowlands)
Awarded Gourmet Traveller Wine Best Small Cellar Door in 2016 and 2018, Dogrock is small but feisty. The vineyards lie in a horseshoe-shaped valley, on the western side of the Pyrenees Ranges, each with their own distinct microclimate reflected in their wines, some say with hints of pepper. The cellar door is on a rocky cliff edge with a vast outlook and the wine range is not only affordable, some of it is unique. They are one of only 27 Australian producers of the Portuguese white, Arinto, and Dogrock is the first wine producer of Azal in the country. Dogrock Winery is open any time by appointment.
A short drive from Avoca along the Sunraysia Highway towards the turn off for Moonambel, Sally’s Paddock/ Redbank Winery is a Mecca for those who like their wine rich and red. After more than 50 years on the land, vivacious Sally is still running the cellar door, pouring wonderful wines and creating an inviting vibe filled with laughter, as well as serving her homemade cakes, and deli platters.
DINING
Photo Supplied
Magnolia’s Restaurant and Bar (Beaufort)
Magnolia’s restaurant is unassumingly tucked into Beaufort’s petite strip of gold-rush era buildings. Entering the intimate dining room, guests are transported into a world of charm, where the old meets the new. Cocktails are the go at Magnolia’s, but not the sort you would expect in a tiny country town — luscious and thoughtful — well-worth a try. Chef Anjal heads the kitchen with a menu showcasing an exquisite attention to detail, that my friend (a former restaurateur) described as the best meal he’s had in a long time. The menu changes seasonally, focusing on locally sourced ingredients to highlight the finest flavours of the region. Diners can expect high-class dining without the city price tag. There is an umbrellaed outdoor eating area in the courtyard and special events with bespoke menus over holiday periods. Open Thursdays – Sundays for lunch and dinner (dinner only on Thursday). Bookings recommended.
Wayward Winery (Waubra)
At the gateway to the Pyrenees, 25-minutes from Ballarat, Wayward is the first winery you enter of the region. Wayward offer a superb seasonal grazing menu, featuring local and home-grown produce (most from within a 30-kilometre radius of the property), and an emphasis on cooking with fire. The stylish restaurant has been recently renovated, with 65 seats across the indoor and covered outdoor balcony dining spaces, now so popular it can be hard to get a table. The winery sits on the side of the dormant volcano ‘Quoin Hill’ which allows for stunning sunsets over the Pyrenees Ranges as well as for growing their four varietals, Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Chardonnay and Shiraz, available in the restaurant, or a bottle to take home. Accommodation in a gorgeous four-bedroom 1920s homestead is also onsite. Wayward is open 11am – 4pm Friday to Sunday.
Summerfield (Moonambel)
Summerfield winery prides itself on home-grown products and their terrific red wines. The owner, Mark, a can-do sort of guy, has transformed what was once simply vineyards into multidimensional business that caters for tourists and locals alike. The Summerfield café and restaurant has indoor and outdoor dining options for up to 80 people, serving their signature woodfired pizzas with homemade stone baked sourdough base. People pop by constantly to collect specialised deli goods produced from Summerfield’s free-range pigs and sheep, fresh bakery delights and take-home pizzas, while the tables fill up quickly with diners around the dog-friendly gardens. Open for lunch on Wednesday to Sundays, and Friday and Saturday evenings for dinner. Bookings essential.
Beaufort
Vegemite Museum: Cyril Callister Foundation
Australia’s dedication to that black, salty, sticky spread we love or hate, Vegemite, originated in Beaufort. In a converted 1950s petrol station, the Cyril Callister Museum celebrates the legacy of the Australian scientist who invented Vegemite in 1923. All things Vegemite are here — 100 years of memorabilia and collectibles.
A few doors down, grab lunch at Fly Wheel Bar & Café, or dinner on Fridays and Saturdays, often with pop-up events such as wine or gin tastings.
STAYING
In the region’s only certified organic winery, Mount Avoca, three architecturally designed, self-contained ‘Eco-Luxe’ lodges sit above the vineyards. A hamper of breakfast provisions and snacks awaited my arrival. From the balcony I breathed in the peace and gazed over the vines, olive groves and mountain ranges. Of an evening, I indulged in the spa-bath (perfect for two, even better for one) sipping an Estate wine, before retiring to the king-size bed to watch the full moon rise thorough the floor to ceiling bedroom window. It is a tranquil, rejuvenating stay, ideal for couples, with everything you could need, even a Weber BBQ on the deck.
My stay coincided with the filming of a TV series, The Cellar Door. I took the opportunity to join the crew and tour the property. 100 acres of land has been set aside as a conservation zone to regenerate native bushland. Walking tracks and bike trails provide guests with their own private adventure playground, with free mountain bike hire. Ocean Road readers receive an $80 discount on Eco-Luxe bookings using code ORM2025.
If you’re thinking of visiting a wine region in Victoria, skip the crowds and head out to the Pyrenees to discover something new. You’ll wish you stayed longer.
Photo by Vanessa Brady
For more information www.visitpyrenees.com.au
