CRUISING THE RHINE IN LUXURY…WITH A FRENCH TWIST !

WORDS: Phil Hawkes PHOTOGRAPHY Supplied

Vive la Différence!

Mignon de Veau Périgueux

There must be a magical magnet attached to the River Rhine. Something that entices so many Australians to take one of the cruise ships that traverse its 883 km navigable length from Switzerland to the Netherlands, with Germany, France and Belgium along the way.  Is it the scenic beauty, famous castles and historic cities? Or perhaps the mythical story of the lovely Lorelei, who enticed sailors to their doom on the rocks by distracting them with her beauty?

Well, I found a Rhine cruise that’s different…and it’s French.

I prefer a small ship with just 100 or so new best friends to meet. And importantly, in a price range I can afford…given the cost of actually getting to Europe. Another plus factor is what value you get for your money… the luxury fit-out and comfort of the cabins; the service culture of the crew; a variety of onshore excursions on offer; and most of all, for Aussies, the food and wine! Whenever your friends talk about cruise ships, inevitably the cuisine and wine list is the subject of lengthy discussions.

That makes a real difference.

What’s it called…is it Croissant Cruises? No, but you’re close. CroisiEurope, based in
Strasbourg, is not particularly well known in Australia (except by travel agencies), yet they’ve been cruising the rivers of Europe and Vietnam/Cambodia for many years. Family owned, Croisi has gained a reputation for its small-ship customer service standards and a desire to engage with passengers in a relaxed, “cruisy” way. No tuxedos required. Our genial Commissaire Jose sets the right tone of informality with accomplices Jerome and David.

As you’d expect, French cuisine is the star attraction and on M.S. Symphonie our Swiss/French chef masters the art of cooking for 100 or so people as if it’s for a table of 6 in a leading restaurant. As with most cruises, breakfast is buffet-style with plenty of choices including omelettes made to order (and nobody makes them better than the French). Unlike on many cruise lines the coffee is uncommonly good too, with a barista at the bar who also indulges guests with a range of complimentary beverages.

Lunch and dinner are set menus at set times, with any dietary restrictions or choices being no problem as long as they’re pre-ordered. My choices were sometimes vege-based but who can resist typical French cuisine such as Magret de Canard and Coquilles Saint-Jacques? Missing: Cuisse de Grenouilles (frog legs)… Kermit nowhere to be found.

So-called “immersive” cruising is becoming more popular; onshore excursions should be pre-booked as numbers are sometimes limited. Self-guiding walks with handy maps from the ship including the German cities of Breisach, Mainz and Koblenz are a good way of keeping fit and digesting the never-ending meals.  Cologne is a very special port stop, best done on a guided tour where the city’s wartime history and the incredible survival of the cathedral is carefully explained.

 Strasbourg on the French side of the Rhine turns out to be a highlight of the whole trip. Such a beautiful city, my favourite for walking and shopping after taking the tram from near our riverside berth. The majestic cathedral is a destination in itself, and together with Cologne represents the best of European religious architecture built over several centuries.  And at journey’s end, there’s an extra day for excursions including the canals of Amsterdam and the “tulip tour”, both of which were fun and educational.

On this cruise, M.S. Symphonie lives up to its name with nightly musical entertainment, sometimes starring the talented pianist and crew members who demonstrate skills other than normal concierge duties. Ladies be careful: some of the crew are really good dancers and will whisk you up for some pretty good groove moves! The main thing, though, is everyone having fun, especially the Spanish passengers who stopped just short of giving flamenco exhibitions.

There are just six of us from Australia, and plenty of Americans (note: do not get into any political discussions), so shipboard announcements are in French, Spanish and English. We form our own Oz table for meals and there’s plenty of banter to keep up with while we pay due respect to the French cuisine, some excellent Rhine wines and heady German beer. There’s a doctor from regional Queensland; a couple from Melbourne; and a retired nurse also from Melbourne with her 22-year-old grandson. Good company. All are returning to Australia with plenty of interesting stories to impress friends and relatives…and a visit to the gym and the dietitian.

The Difference?

Overall, this CroisiEurope cruise is a fun, relaxing way to spend 8 days in the middle of Europe when you have other plans as well, perhaps another cruise.  For one thing, you’ll be well fed and watered. And you’ll feel like persuading the friendly crew away from that deadly Lorelei rock by suggesting they emigrate to Australia and become “Murray Maidens”!

www.croisieurope.travel

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Lovely Rhine Maidens

WARNING!

Research will tell you the mythical German story of the Lorelei, a “wondrous beauty”
who would pose on a rock beside the river and bewitch the sailors, enticing them to crash into the cliffs. Wagner later included three “Rhine Maidens” in his Ring Cycle operas and we were lucky enough to capture them for a photo shoot while our captain deftly navigated M.S. Symphonie through this narrow channel. They tried hard to look menacing but ended up looking just as enticing as the Lorelei. In my eyes, anyway!