Beyond SHIRAZ and CHARDONNAY: Australia’s alternative Wine Revolution

From Fiano and Grüner Veltliner to Montepulciano and Tempranillo, Australian winemakers are embracing a new generation of climate-friendly grape varieties that are reshaping the nation’s wine landscape and expanding consumer choice.

Australia is internationally renowned for its classic grape varieties such as Pinot Noir, Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon, Riesling, Pinot Gris, Semillon and Chardonnay just to name a few. However, in recent years, there has been a growing interest among winemakers and consumers in alternative grape varieties. The lesser-known and often climate-adapted grapes are being cultivated across Australian wine regions, bringing diversity and innovation to the industry. The introduction and success of alternative varieties not only offer new taste experiences but also provide solutions for challenges such as climate change and shifting consumer preferences. This exploration of alternative grape varieties marks an exciting new chapter in Australia’s rich winemaking tradition.

Initially, alternative varieties arrived as direct imports from Europe, South Africa, and South America where as consumers we experienced the best (and worst) examples of the real deal.  No surprise really that many are grown in Australia now from clones that were establishment with nurseries like CSIRO, and Yalumba propagating many varieties locally since the early 70’s.  Subsequently, it was only a matter of time before domestic vineyards began planting and making delicious wines out of the alternative varieties.  As a value-add Australian winemakers soon discovered that alternative varieties flourished in our ever-warmer climates with some needing less water and spraying than traditional varieties like Chardonnay to generate good yields and quality. Specifically, many are dry resistant such as the Spanish and Italian varieties requiring lesser water and care.

The growth of the new alternative varieties in our market place is real and tangible and not hyperbole or a short-lived Sommelier driven desire.  For example, the growth of alternative varieties is best witnessed by the Australian Alternative Wine Show where in 1999 the show hosted only 28 entries, now it receives over 600 entries with over 83 different varieties are shown.   Australia has around 160 registered grape varieties, including Greek varieties Assyrtiko, Xinomavro and Mavrodaphne which are relatively new to our country.  By comparison, Italy is said to have around 2000 grape varieties, with Spain having around 600 and Greece around 300 or so for example.  So, Australia is still a long way aways from total saturation of alternative varieties but the numbers are growing.

Just some of the numerous alternative varieties found in Australia are Tempranillo, Sangiovese, Nebbiolo, Zinfandel, Barbera, Gruner Veltliner, Marsanne, Roussanne, Vermentino, Arneis etc.  Needless to say, consumers are screaming for new stuff as choice is important. In short, who wants to drink the same wine every night, right?

Fiano another Italian variety which has its origins in Campania, Naples Italy is hitting form in Australia. Aromatic with lovely aromas of citrus, peach and nectarines it is a pure delightful to the palate providing high acidity and texture. Try this wine with seafood, fish or quiche – yummy. Look From McLaren Vale, South Australia try the Hedonist Fiano.  Hedonist vineyards were established in 1982.  The winery is 4.5 stars rated from James Halliday and is certified biodynamic and organic.  The wines are made by husband-and-wife team James and Kimberley Cooter from Cooter and Cooter Wines and the legendry Walter Clappis (father of Kimberley) and a veteran winemaker of over 30 years. Walter was the owner and winemaker of Ingolby wines and has been awarded the highly prized Bushing King award for the highest scoring individual wine at the McLaren Vale wine show in recent times. The wine has Golden Delicious apple tartness and fine chalky texture underpinning the persistent stone fruit core, while notes of salted pistachio and delicate hazelnut cream lend a silken are present, finishing with a glossy mouthfeel. The finish is long, crunchy and savoury, with a lingering mineral tension. Try this wine with Asian dishes such as stir fries.

From Australia try Nova Vita from the Adelaide Hills.  Nova Vita is a family-owned winery and was established in 2000 by Mark and Joanne Kozned. James Halliday rates the winery with 4 stars and as he puts it “The name Nova Vita reflects the beginning of the Kozned’s new life, the firebird on the label coming from their Russian ancestry – it is a Russian myth that only a happy or lucky person may see the bird or hear its song. “Their Grüner Veltliner is early harvested whole bunch pressed and matured in oak with 12 months aging on yeast lees thus producing a complex creamy textured wine.  The wine is also vegan friendly with no animal products used.   A luxurious wine with notes of tarragon, ginger green apple on both the nose and palate with a spicy peppery and minerally acid finish.   Sam Kim from Wine Orbit has awarded this wine 93 points. Try this wine with grilled chicken and tarragon cream sauce, or grilled pork chops.

Another must try is from Zontes Footstop. As per James Halliday “Zonte’s Footstep was founded by a group of winemakers and wine marketers who decided in ’03 that it was time to do their own thing in McLaren Vale. The brand produces an extraordinary varietal range of 26 different wines using the classic northern European varieties including Mediterranean varieties of Vermentino, Glera, Sangiovese, Lagrein, Tempranillo and Montepulciano etc. Their Montepulciano is called Rosso Cova meaning brooding red.  The wine is dark in colour, rich and plump, approachable with moderate acidity finishing with mild ripe tannins.  The wine sees about 12 months in large format aged oak and has wone several awards including Double Gold Medal China Wine & Spirits Awards 2022 and a Gold Medal at the Melbourne International Wine Competition 2022.  This wine will pair well with robust winter dishes.