Aromatic Whites: The Rise of Alternative Grapes

WORDS: Peter Pan Wine – Wine Consultant, Wine Writer, Educator and Fine Wine Specialist PHOTOGRAPHY Supplied

Exploring the growth and appeal of aromatic white wines in Australia

Alternative grape varieties are not new to the Australia wine scene but they are receiving more attention.  For many years I’ve read about the rise and rise of new varieties but finally it appears they are finding their way into more commercial wine stores and wine lists and consequently in the mouths of consumers.

What are Aromatic White Wines?

Aromatic white grapes are known for their powerful and inviting fragrances, often featuring floral, fruity, or herbal notes. This aromatic profile can include anything from lush citrus and stone fruits to exotic spices and sweet florals. Aromatic white grapes typically possess vibrant acidity, which contributes to their refreshing taste and enhances food pairings. The lively acidity helps balance sweetness and adds an uplifting quality to the wine.  Aromatic white grapes can be used to produce a variety of wine styles, from dry and crisp to sweet and luscious. Aromatic grape varieties often reflect the terroir of the regions where they are grown, showcasing unique characteristics influenced by the local climate, soil, and winemaking traditions. Notable examples are varieties such as Gewürztraminer, Muscat, Riesling, and Sauvignon Blanc just to name a few and are well-known for their aromatic qualities, each bringing its own distinctive charm and characteristics to the table. These traits combine to make aromatic white grapes a favourite among wine lovers and food enthusiasts alike, offering a tantalizing sensory experience.

 A Brief History

Initially alternative varieties arrived as direct imports from Europe, South Africa, and South America to Australia where as consumers we experienced the best (and worst) examples of the real deal.  No surprise really that many are grown in Australia now from clones that were establishment with  nurseries like CSIRO, Yalumba and Chalmers which have been propagating many varieties locally since the early 70’s.  The growth of the new alternative varieties in our market place is real and tangible and not hyperbole or a short lived Sommelier driven desire.  For example, the growth of alternative varieties is best witnessed by the Australian Alternative Wine Show where in 1999 the show hosted only 28 entries, but now it receives over 600 entries with over 83 different varieties shown.

There are more than 200 aromatic grape varieties cultivated around the world, each showcasing its own unique bouquet, flavour profile, and characteristics. Some of the most prominent aromatic varieties include Gewürztraminer, Muscat, Riesling, and Sauvignon Blanc, but this list is far from exhaustive.

Why Alternative White Grape Varieties

Aromatic white wines are easily and readily available in the market including retail and wine lists.  They tend to be well priced, attractively packaged and styles are vast and varied from simple and range from fun to complex, refined and can be made non-oaked to oaked.  They are also easy drinking, light, approachable and can be consumed with or without food or alternatively they can be complex if aged and oaked.    Finally, they suit our climate and lifestyles and consequently a variety of meals and cuisines as suggested above. There is nothing, like smashing a cold white aromatic wine in the warmer months alone on the deck or with company and/or served with our alfresco dining lifestyle.   It hits the spot!

What to drink

From the mainland of Greece one must try Skouras Assyrtiko.  The Skouras winery was established in 1986 and is located in Nemea a southern region of Greece (Peloponnese region). The Grapes are sourced from the Peloponnese region which is regarded as a warm climate from soils that are poor including clay, loam, gravels and sand. The Assyrtiko is grown in red clay from altitudes of 600 metres, and are whole bunch pressed and stirred on lees for 4 months receiving no malolactic fermentation or oak treatment. The wine is clear in colour, and there are notes of green apple citrus and saline on both the nose and palate.  The body is quite weighty and rich with steely acidity and the minerality of the wine providing great length.  Enjoy this wine with Seafood such as oysters, fresh or cooked prawns, grilled chicken or pork chops.

From McLaren Vale, South Australia try the Hedonist Fiano.  Hedonist vineyards were established in 1982.  The winery is 4.5 stars rated from James Halliday and is certified biodynamic and organic.  The wines are made by husband and wife team James and Kimberley Cooter from Cooter and Cooter Wines and the legendry Walter Clappis (father of Kimberley) and a veteran winemaker of over 30 years. Walter was the owner and winemaker of Ingolby wines and has been awarded the highly prized Bushing King award for the highest scoring individual wine at the McLaren Vale wine show in recent times. The wine has Golden Delicious apple tartness and fine chalky texture underpinning the persistent stone fruit core, while notes of salted pistachio and delicate hazelnut cream lend a silken are present, finishing with a glossy mouthfeel. The finish is long, crunchy and savoury, with a lingering mineral tension. Try this wine with Asian dishes such as stir fries.

Next and from Italy try the Butussi Friulano from the northern region Friuli Colli Orientali with a D.O.C classification of Italy. DOC meaning Denominazione di Origin which signifies it’s a high quality region with strict forms of control and growing grapes, making wine and aging etc. This region is home to Alpine soils millions of years old and topped with mineral rich of both marl and clay. The soils provide complexity and a mineral edge to the wines. Whilst altitude in this region is around 400 metres above sea level, it consequently, provides good drainage, sunlight and coolness.

As a grape Friulano can be mistaken for Sauvignon Blanc however there are notes grapefruit green apple peach and tarragon. The variety has few tannins, high acidity and is usually light bodied but not always. I found it provides a creamy element to the taste and body.  Straw yellow in colour tending with a light greenish tinge. Delicate and pleasant aroma reminiscent of wildflowers, it has a dry flavour with a soft and velvety taste and an aftertaste of bitter almond. It is excellent as an aperitif, but it also goes well with appetisers in general, with eggs and asparagus and it is excellent, the wine was matured 6-8 months in steel barrels and a further 2 – 4 months in the bottle before release. It pairs well with appetizers, or a drink on its own. It’s a non brainer!

Happy and safe drinking.

You can follow Peter on Twitter @peterpanwine